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Remove voltage monitor logic - no longer relevant
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@@ -119,59 +119,3 @@ as follows:
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\li BAT, 32K, and RST left unconnected.
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*/
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/*
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NOTE: The following has been commented out for now. More work is needed
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on the wind-up power supply.
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\section clock_power Power supply
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This section describes the power supply for the wind-up alarm clock,
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which consists of a hand-cranked dynamo, a 3.6 volt NiMH battery, and a
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charge pump DC-to-DC converter to boost the voltage up to 5 volts.
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Here is the circuit:
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\image html dynamo_power_supply.png
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The dynamo must be based on a DC motor rather than AC (bicycle light dynamos
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are typically AC). If you are using an AC dynamo, then replace D1 with a
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full 4-diode rectifier bridge to convert the AC into DC first.
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In Australia, <a href="http://www.jaycar.com.au">Jaycar</a> sells a suitable
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<a href="http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=MD7000">DC dynamo</a>.
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Diode D1 stops the voltage in the battery from flowing backwards into
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the motor. If you hook things up the wrong way around, then the motor
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will spin without being cranked! In this case, reverse the + and - leads
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on the dynamo and try again.
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After D1, the main energy storage for the circuit is the 3.6 volt NiMH
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battery (at least 1000 mAh capacity). These are commonly used in
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cordless phones and can be obtained from most consumer electronics stores:
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\image html battery.jpg
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The main part of the circuit is next, consisting of a MAX619 regulated 5 volt
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charge pump DC-to-DC converter chip. This chip boosts an input voltage of
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between 2 and 3.6 volts up to 5 volts and regulates it into a nice flat
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supply for the rest of the alarm clock.
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Note: the MAX619 has a maximum rating of 3.6 volts, but when the dynamo is
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being cranked rapidly the voltage at the cathode of D1 can spike to 4 volts
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or more. The battery is fine with this for short periods of time,
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but the MAX619 won't be happy. Hence the forward voltage drop on D2
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is used to drop the supply down by 0.7 volts which will keep it within
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the MAX619's input range. If the dynamo is rated higher than 5VDC,
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then add extra diodes at D1 to drop the voltage down before it
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hits the battery.
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For normal uncranked operation the battery will need to be between 2.7 and
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3.6 volts. If it falls below 2.7, then the battery is considered "empty".
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A diode with a smaller voltage drop can be substituted for D2 for longer
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operation times as long as the maximum dynamo output minus the voltage
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drop is less than or equal to 3.6 volts. The "Sense Battery Status" output
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is hooked up to an analog input pin on the Arduino to let it monitor
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the battery voltage and display the current status to the user (after
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adding 0.7 to account for the voltage drop on D2).
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If you don't have 1N4001 diodes to hand, then 1N4004 will work just as well.
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*/
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